Turkey: a country with countless highlights

Turkey (or more accurately Türkiye) is a distinctive country. It borders the Balkans, the Black Sea, the Mediterranean Sea, the Middle East, and the Caucasus. Because of this, it doesn’t really fit into any one category, making it a region of its own.

The country is rich in remnants from its multicultural past when various peoples and empires settled there. With the fall of the Ottoman Empire and the establishment of the Republic of Türkiye, the huge country took on the shape we know today. It’s hard to find a more patriotic people than the Turks.

Turkey is simply too large to explore all at once, unless you set aside at least two months for it. That’s why, for our first trip to Turkey, we chose perhaps the most beautiful and diverse part of the country, the southwest, also known as the Turkish Riviera.

This area is officially divided into two regions, named after the seas they border: the Aegean and the Mediterranean. Here, you can expect dramatic coastlines, ancient cities, and charming small coastal towns. We promise that after this, you'll definitely want to see more of Türkiye.

In this travel guide, we’ll share our fantastic 3-week itinerary for Western Turkey!

Recommended itinerary

The itinerary lasts approximately 3 weeks. The travel times between the destinations of this itinerary are generally short, allowing you to see and do plenty each day. Both Antalya and Izmir are convenient starting and/or ending points due to their location and their large airports.

A logical combination and order of destinations would look like this:

• Antalya (beginning and end)

• Phaselis, Çirali, Adrasan & Gelidonya

• Myra, Kaş & Kastellorizo

• Xanthos, Letoon & Patara

• Saklikent Gorge & Tlos

• Kabak & Kayaköy

• Dalyan

• Şirince & Ephesus

• Izmir

• Aphrodisias, Pamukkale-Hierapolis & Lake Salda

There are various ways to extend the route if you wish to travel longer in Türkiye. At the end of the guide, we provide more information about possible extensions. We also give you practical information on travelling through Türkiye.

The route in short

We understand that when planning a trip, you often want a concise overview of destinations and their highlights. So below we share a brief overview of what to expect from this itinerary, including estimates of how much time you need per destination, based on how long it took us to properly explore each location. This pace is relatively fast with packed days, so feel free to allocate more time if, for example, you want to relax longer along the way. The great thing about Türkiye is that, at least outside the peak season, there is plenty of hotel availability, so you can book your accommodation last minute if you want maximum flexibility.

Antalya (2 to 3 days)

• Stroll through the beautiful old town with its historic stone houses, wooden accents, and colourful vegetation. Stop at a bar to soak in the atmosphere

• Enjoy the sunset at the harbour and walk through the city park along the impressive rocky coastline with views of the stunning mountains

• Visit the Düden Waterfalls, a beautiful and peaceful spot just outside the busy city centre

Phaselis, Çirali, Adrasan & Gelidonya (2 to 3 days)

• Visit the ruins of the Lycian city of Phaselis, beautifully located on a peninsula

• Have a meal and stay overnight in a bungalow in the hippie-like coastal town of Çirali

• Take an affordable boat tour from Adrasan to swim in the most idyllic coves

• Tackle the challenging Lycian Way hike from Adrasan for the most beautiful stretch of Mediterranean coastline in Türkiye, or opt for the shorter route from Karaöz to the Gelidonya Lighthouse and enjoy stunning panoramic views

Myra, Kaş & Kastellorizo (3 days)

• Visit the impressive tombs and amphitheatre of Myra

• Spend the night and wander around the cosiest town in Western Türkiye: Kaş

• Take a boat from Kaş to the picturesque Greek island of Kastellorizo

Xanthos, Letoon & Patara (1 to 2 days)

• Visit the neighbouring Lycian cities of Xanthos and Letoon which have been awarded UNESCO status for their historical relevance

• If you fear archaeology fatigue (there are many more ancient cities to see), skip these sites and take a look at the impressive dunes of Patara

Saklikent Gorge & Tlos (1 day)

• Walk through the towering rock walls of Saklikent Gorge

• Visit one of the most beautiful Lycian cities of Tlos, which is surrounded by stunning mountains

Kabak & Kayaköy (2 days)

• Book a bungalow in the remote Kabak Bay, far from the over-touristy Ölüdeniz and Fethiye, and unwind in this incredibly beautiful location

• Visit the ghost town of Kayaköy if you're interested in ‘dark tourism,’ as the story and appearance of this place are deeply tragic

Dalyan (1 day)

• Take a wonderful boat tour through the Dalyan Delta, passing the impressive tombs carved into the mountain cliffs

• Relax on the beautiful Iztuzu Beach, also known as Turtle Beach, because of the turtles that lay their eggs here

Şirince & Ephesus (2 days)

• Explore the hidden and picturesque ancient Greek village of Şirince and stay in one of the old, charming houses

• Visit the impressive Greco-Roman city of Ephesus (or skip it for the much cheaper and less touristy city of Aphrodisias)

Izmir (1 to 2 days)

• Discover the authentic urban life of the third-largest, but non-touristy, city in Türkiye

• Find the best and most affordable goods at the massive bazaar

• Enjoy excellent coffee and cosy bars amongst the many students

Aphrodisias, Pamukkale-Hierapolis & Lake Salda (2 days)

• Visit the ancient Greco-Roman city of Aphrodisias, which is incredibly well-preserved due to its more remote location

• Consider visiting the (super touristy but) unique travertine terraces of Pamukkale and the nearby Greco-Roman city of Hierapolis

• On the return trip to Antalya, stop by the stunning crater lake of Salda with its crystal-clear waters and white sandy beaches

Hopefully, you now have a good idea of a trip through this part of Türkiye. Next, we will go into detail about each destination and what exactly there is to see and do, so you can decide where you would and wouldn’t like to go. Inspiration is the core of our guides, so if by the end you have any practical questions that haven’t been answered, feel free to send us a message via Instagram!

Antalya

Antalya is the capital of Türkiye’s Mediterranean region. While many people choose Antalya for a beach holiday, we were particularly charmed by the old town of Antalya, known as Kaleiçi. Here, you’ll find charming narrow streets with old stone buildings featuring wooden accents and lush greenery. Especially towards the end of the day, when the sun is nearly setting, the soft light makes the streets even more stunning and romantic. If you look carefully, you can find some hidden gems among the tourist shops and restaurants where you can fully enjoy the cosy atmosphere, like Simurg Cafe & Bar.

There are two main routes that are great for walking through the old town. First, you can start at the ancient Hadrian's Gate and walk all the way to the Hidirlik Tower and the nearby Karaalioglu Park. From here, you’ll have an incredible view of the mountains and the city, which is uniquely situated several meters above the sea on the cliffs. The old town, along with the harbour, is the only part of the city that slopes down towards the sea, giving it a beautiful layered structure with a lot to discover. Next, you can walk down to the harbour. From there, you’ll once again enjoy stunning views of the mountains and the small but photogenic Mermerli Beach. Afterwards, you can take the panoramic elevator and admire the old town from above, either from Recep Bilgin Park or Tophane Park.

Another beautiful route to explore the old town starts at the historic Clock Tower. The nearby Tekeli Mehmet Pasa Mosque makes this area very photogenic. Be sure to also visit the remarkable Yivliminare Mosque, which dates back to the 13th century. We definitely recommend staying in the old town as well. It’s a unique experience to sleep in one of the beautiful, historic buildings, and it’s not necessarily more expensive than staying in the less charming, modern part of the city.

There’s plenty to do on the outskirts of the city as well. As we mentioned earlier, Antalya is uniquely situated on a high rocky coastline. It’s one of the few places in the world where a river cascades directly into the sea in the form of a waterfall. This spot is known as the Lower Düden Waterfalls. We only visited the Upper Düden Waterfalls (by bus), which are part of a park to the north of the city for which you pay a few euros. The main waterfall here is particularly beautiful. You can also enjoy a relaxed meal by the water. If you're craving a beach day, Lara or Konyaaltı Beach are the places to be. The latter is especially popular and the easiest to reach from the city centre.

Finally, there are a few places within a two-hour drive from Antalya that you might consider visiting. These include the ancient Greco-Roman cities of Pergamon, Termessos, and Sagalassos, the remarkably well-preserved amphitheatre of Aspendos, where you can still attend performances, and the impressive Köprülü and Tazi Gorges, where you can go rafting and hiking.

Good to know: you can use your debit or credit card to check in on all public transport in Antalya, with a ride costing about one euro. Another great convenience is the very reliable tram connection from the airport to the city centre.

Phaselis, Çirali, Adrasan & Gelidonya

The travel time from Antalya to Phaselis is approximately 1 hour, then it's about half an hour to each subsequent location.

Phaselis
Phaselis is an ancient Lycian city. Lycia was a civilization that existed in the area between Fethiye and Antalya from around 1400 BC. After being independent until around 550 BC, it was successively conquered by the Persians, the Greeks, the Romans, and the Byzantines. Despite these conquests, it maintained a relatively independent culture and civilization until it eventually fell into the hands of the Ottoman Empire. Today, only the ruins of this civilization remain visible.

Phaselis is one of our favourite ancient cities because there is so much to see and because it's beautifully situated on a small peninsula. An entrance ticket costs around 13 euros per person. The amphitheatre especially stood out to us due to its incredible view of Mount Olympos. It has become clear to us that entertainment back then was a combination of what took place on and behind the stage. The ticket also grants you access to the beautiful beach of Phaselis.

Çirali
A little further on, you will find the hippie-like coastal town of Çirali. Here you can stop for a bite to eat or, if it is already later in the day, for an overnight stay. You will find a lot of cosy and affordable bungalows here. This way you can also easily walk to the beach for sunset. If you have the time and would enjoy visiting another old city, you will find the ancient city of Olympos nearby. You can walk here from Çirali, which is handy because otherwise you have to drive all the way around the mountain to reach the main entrance.

Adrasan & Gelidonya
Adrasan is a small coastal village, even quieter than Çirali. Along the boulevard, however, you’ll still find several cosy restaurants and bars. The village is not that lively, but it is the ideal base if you want to hike the Lycian Way. This long-distance trail stretches about 540 kilometres along the southwest coast of Türkiye, following the ancient paths of the Lycians, as the name suggests. The hike is becoming increasingly popular due to its spectacular views of the Mediterranean, impressive ruins, remote mountain villages, lush forests, and rocky cliffs.

The Lycian Way can be quite challenging, though. The stretch from Adrasan to the Gelidonya Lighthouse is reportedly the most beautiful but also the toughest. It takes at least a full day to reach the next village. If you’re not an experienced hiker, you can choose to walk only from Karaöz to the Gelidonya Lighthouse, which takes about two hours in total if you drive up to the starting point of the trail. The road leading there is very bumpy, but it saves a lot of your time and energy. The path winds beautifully through the pine forest and along the stunning coastline. If you continue a little further up the mountain after reaching the lighthouse, you’ll be rewarded with an incredible view.

Adrasan is also the perfect base for a boat trip, allowing you to explore the beautiful coastline and bays from the water. You can find a day tour, including lunch, for as little as 20 euros per person. This is the best value for money we've seen, likely because it’s a less touristy area. If relaxing on a boat for the day is your thing, Adrasan is definitely the place to do it!

Myra, Kaş & Kastellorizo

The travel time from Gelidonya to Myra is about an hour and a quarter. From there, it’s another 40 minutes to Kaş. The ferry to Kastellorizo takes about half an hour (more information below).

Myra
Myra is a historic Lycian city located on the edge of a very rural area. The route to get there is quite unusual, passing through greenhouses. You might briefly wonder where you're heading, but will eventually be rewarded with an archaeological highlight. This ancient city is famous for its impressive rock tombs and massive amphitheatre. Especially at the end of the day, the light creates a spectacular sight. Myra is also known as the home of Bishop Saint Nicholas, who is considered the inspiration for Santa Claus.

An entry costs around 13 euros, which might feel quite steep since you can be done within an hour. Nevertheless, we still would deem it special enough for a visit. If, however, you're looking to visit fewer archaeological sites, the rock tombs in Dalyan (which you can see for free) later on this route offer a fantastic alternative.

Kaş
Kaş is truly the highlight of this trip when it comes to charming villages. During the day, it's still fairly calm, and like many other amateur photographers, you can try to capture beautiful shots of the photogenic streets with wooden balconies and abundant flowers. In the evening, it really comes alive with a cosy, lively atmosphere. There are so many great and charming restaurants that it’s easy to experience decision fatigue.

You can explore Kaş in just a few hours, but because of the lively ambience, many people choose to stay longer and use it as a base to explore the surroundings. A popular activity is to go on a boat trip to visit the sunken Lycian city near Kekova Island and/or the many picturesque bays and beaches. We thought this was a bit overhyped, so we skipped it. We believe Adrasan offers more value for money in this regard. However, a true must-do, in our opinion, is a visit to the Greek island of Kastellorizo, which you'll read more about below. We highly recommend staying at the wonderful and hip Luff Boutique Hotel in the middle of the cosy city centre.

Kastellorizo
Kastellorizo, the Greek island just off the coast of Kaş, feels like it could be straight out of a Mamma Mia movie. The island has been the subject of much dispute between Türkiye and Greece, with the Turks eager to claim it, but it remains firmly Greek. So Greek, in fact, that you might almost wonder if it's a façade funded by the Greek government. We, however, experienced it to be incredibly authentic and, without a doubt, one of the highlights of our trip!

You don’t need more than a few hours to explore Kastellorizo. There are two ferries (Meis Express and Meis Ferrylines) that depart between 9 and 10 AM and return between 3 and 4 PM. A round-trip ticket costs around 35 euros. Once you’ve passed through customs on both sides, you’ll arrive at the picturesque harbour of the island. Enthusiastic captains will try to sell you a boat tour around the island, specifically to the Blue Cave. We were more interested in exploring the island on foot, so we can’t say whether the boat tours are worth it based on personal experience. However, we can truly say that walking is a great way of exploring the island!

We highly recommend settling down at a café by the water to fully soak in the colourful view and enjoy an authentic Greek café frappé. Afterwards, wander through the narrow streets and take a climb up the so-called "400 steps" to the top of the island. You'll encounter few others, allowing you to experience the island's rugged, and almost steppe-like landscape. From the top, the views are absolutely breathtaking, especially of the crystal-clear bays and the charming, colourful town below.

Beyond this, there’s not much to see on the rest of the island, so after your hike, head straight to the incredibly authentic Greek restaurant Ta Platania. The restaurant is exactly what you would expect to see in a Greek movie, and it turns out we’re not alone in that sentiment, as it was actually featured in the 90s film Mediterraneo. The owners are still quite proud of this, and it’s easy to see why!

Xanthos, Letoon & Patara

The travel time from Kaş to the nearby locations Xhantos, Letoon, and Patara is approximately 1 hour.

Xanthos & Letoon
Xanthos and Letoon are two ancient Lycian cities with UNESCO status. This is particularly special, as Türkiye only has 21 UNESCO sites. The reason Xanthos and Letoon earned UNESCO recognition is that they were the centre of the Lycian empire and because so many written texts have been discovered there that these archaeological sites were deemed crucial for deciphering the Lycian language. This was especially made possible because multilingual inscriptions were found here.

We had read mixed reviews about these places beforehand. British amateur archaeologists couldn't resist taking a lot of the valuable artefacts when they discovered the sites a few decades ago, so the most important ones are no longer there but are instead housed in the infamous British Museum. We secretly can't wait for the flood of returns from this museum to begin, so we can finally see these historical pieces in their rightful place!

Due to the absence of the most important artefacts, the visit felt somewhat underwhelming, as the cities themselves are not that large or well-preserved. However, it's still an interesting visit for those who enjoy archaeology. Both sites only cost about 3 euros to visit.

Patara
Patara is famous for its incredibly large beach and ancient Lycian city. To access the beach, you need to pass through the ruins, which costs about 15 euros. Since we had already had our fill of archaeology, we decided to skip it. However, visiting the ancient city of Patara is a good alternative to Xantos and Letoon, as it allows you to see both the ruins and the beach, though in our opinion, the restoration here has been done a bit too enthusiastically.

A great tip to view the beach for free and from an even more impressive vantage point, is to drive to the dunes (search for Patara Kum Tepeleri on google maps). The road here is quite bumpy, but it takes you to a stunning spot! Especially at sunset or early in the morning, it's a perfect place to enjoy the breathtaking view. The small nearby village of Gelemiş offers some cosy restaurants and affordable hotels, making it a good base for exploring the area.

Saklikent Gorge & Tlos

The travel time from Patara to Saklikent is around 45 minutes and then just 20 minutes to Tlos.

Saklikent Gorge
Saklikent Gorge is one of the longest and deepest canyons in Türkiye, stretching about 18 kilometres with walls reaching up to 300 meters high. The gorge was formed by the erosion of limestone rocks by flowing meltwater. "Saklikent" means "hidden city" in Turkish, which supposedly refers to the narrow, almost mysterious passages and its remote location. Honestly, we couldn’t fully see this, but perhaps we didn’t venture deep enough into the gorge.

It’s a very popular spot, so we initially wondered if we were up for it. Fortunately, most visitors only go a short way into the gorge, and you can walk further on your own. The first 2 kilometres are accessible without a guide, but beyond that, it’s recommended to have one as the gorge narrows and becomes more rugged. We decided to turn back at some point, but it was definitely an enjoyable and scenic experience.

When we visited, the water level was very low. We wrapped our belongings in plastic bags and carried them in a backpack, and for just one euro, we rented plastic water shoes from one of the many stalls on the way to the gorge. The first part of the gorge was a bit challenging due to the colder stream of water, but after that, it’s much easier and very family-friendly. Saklıkent is also a popular spot for more adventurous activities like canyoning and rafting. It's a great place for those seeking a mix of adventure and natural beauty!

Tlos
Close to the gorge, you will find one of our favourite archaeological sites: the ancient Lycian city of Tlos. If you go to the gorge we would definitely recommend going to Tlos as well. It only costs 3 euros and is a really impressive place, both because of its condition and its beautiful location between the mountains. You will find rock tombs, an amphitheatre, a stadium and Roman baths. The arches of the bathhouse are still so intact that you can imagine yourself daydreaming here during a wonderful 'wellness day'. In addition, it is not crowded at all, which makes a visit extra enjoyable.

Kabak & Kayaköy

The travel time from Tlos to Kabak is about 1.5 hours. You can drive straight through the mountains or drive around it, along the coast (as we did). It’s about an hour from Kabak to Kayaköy.

Kabak
Kabak, officially located in the Aegean region of Türkiye, is known for being part of a stunning stretch of the Lycian Way. However, we came here mainly to relax after a fairly fast-paced trip. When we booked our bungalow, we didn’t fully realize how remote this area is, far from the more tourist-heavy spots like Ölüdeniz and Fethiye. In the end, we were so glad we ended up here, as it felt like paradise, especially in contrast to the mass tourism (mostly British sunbathers) in those other places.

There are several incredible accommodations in Kabak, catering to various budgets. We stayed at Goat Bungalow, which was a fantastic mid-range option. Just a 5-minute walk away is Kabak Misafir Evi, a restaurant you absolutely must visit. The prices are very reasonable, the family running the restaurant is incredibly kind, and the view is absolutely breathtaking. A day of relaxing in the bay of Kabak is something we highly recommend!

If you're curious about what else to do in the area, we can suggest a visit to Babadağ Mountain and the Blue Lagoon (Mavi Lagün). You can visit the Blue Lagoon for free by parking at one of the beach clubs on the north side. For the nearby Ölüdeniz beach, however, you'll have to pay high parking fees or even a pedestrian entrance fee, which is quite bizarre if you ask us!

Babadağ Mountain is famous for paragliding over the incredible Ölüdeniz bay. If you're willing to spend the money (starting at 150 euros per person), it’s definitely a unique experience. You can also drive up the mountain and enjoy the views. We recommend deciding to do these activities only at the last minute though, as they're only worth it if the weather is clear.

Kayaköy
Hidden in the hills, away from the tourist hotspots, lies a unique and mysterious place called Kayaköy. To understand the story behind this abandoned Greek settlement, we need to take a step back into the complex and sensitive history of the region.

For centuries, the region we now know as Türkiye was part of the multicultural Ottoman Empire, where various religious and ethnic groups coexisted. However, in the early 20th century, as the empire weakened, there was a growing fear that Christian minorities, like the Greeks, might turn against the Ottoman state. This fear was fueled further by the rise of nationalist movements. During World War I and the subsequent Greco-Turkish War, many Greeks were forced to leave their homeland, with many falling victim to nationalist violence. In 1923, a compulsory population exchange was agreed upon between Türkiye and Greece, aimed at reducing ethnic conflicts. As a result, almost all Greeks were forced to leave Türkiye, marking the end of centuries-old Greek communities that had been rooted in the region.

In western Türkiye, you can still find traces of ancient Greek settlements. Some of these villages have remained well-preserved because they were later taken over and restored by Turkish inhabitants. Although the architectural style sometimes retains a hint of its Greek past, the Greek heritage and any traces of the tragic events that occurred are often no longer visible.

Kayaköy, however, forms an intriguing exception to this. Unlike other abandoned villages, here only the bare skeletons of houses and churches remain, standing as silent witnesses to its history. Kayaköy must have once been a vibrant place, with its narrow street and wood-decorated houses, but after the Greeks were killed and expelled, the Turks refused to inhabit the abandoned houses, fearing malevolent spirits. This ultimately led to the complete decay of the village, making it one of the few places where you can still visibly witness the traces of this tragedy. It is truly an example of 'dark tourism', making you feel both intrigued and awkward at once.

Dalyan

The travel time from Kayaköy to Dalyan is approximately 1.5 hours

Dalyan is a unique destination, offering a blend of natural beauty and archaeological highlights. The most iconic feature of this place is the view of the Lycian rock tombs towering above the river. The town itself is small but has a certain charm to it. Strangely though, it is filled with an abundance of sports bars and hamburger restaurants, likely due to the high number of British tourists. Nevertheless, if you look carefully, you can find some really nice spots. For example, the simple Melek Anne café, hidden in a side street, offers affordable food and drinks by the river with the best possible view of the rock tombs.

While it's not necessary to take a boat trip to get a good view of the tombs, we do recommend it. A return trip only costs around 10 euros (prices are regulated, so they are the same everywhere as long as the boat is part of the local cooperative), and you get to enjoy a 45-minute journey through the beautiful delta until you reach the stunning Iztuzu Beach, also known as Turtle Beach because sea turtles lay their eggs here. Even if you don't spot any turtles, visiting the beach is still worthwhile as it is wonderful and not too crowded due to its limited accessibility. There are two simple restaurants and you can even rent beach beds, so make sure to bring your swimwear if you want to relax. Afterwards, you can take the same boat back to the town.

We also recommend taking the mini-ferry across the river from the town. You can either go by foot or car, which takes just a few minutes and costs almost nothing. On the other side, it is much quieter, and you'll find the ancient city of Kaunos, which the rock tombs are actually part of. While we didn't visit it due to time constraints, you should be able to enjoy a fantastic view of the delta if you walk up to the top of the ancient city. You can also continue driving to the higher-located Duygu Cafe or one of the restaurants in the village of Çandır, where you can savour something delicious while taking in the stunning views.

Although most people head straight to the highway from Dalyan to get to their next destination, we actually recommend taking the ferry and driving this route instead. It’s not any longer and offers a much calmer, more scenic drive. Along the way, you also pass the vast Köyceğiz Lake. Unfortunately, we didn’t take any photos to prove it, but trust us, it’s far more enjoyable than the highway!

Şirince & Ephesus

The travel time from Dalayn to Şirince is around 3.5 hours. Ephesus is just 20 minutes away from here.

Şirince
Şirince is an old Greek village, nestled in the mountains near the famous Ephesus and the nearby town of Selçuk. Since Selçuk itself isn’t particularly charming, Şirince also serves as a great base for visiting Ephesus. You can explore Şirince in just a few hours. What makes it special is its unique architecture. The horizontally wide houses, made of white-painted stone and wooden window frames, create a very picturesque scene. Strangely, we found it quite reminiscent of the Albanian village of Berat. After some research, we discovered that the architectural style of Şirince is a mix of Greek and Ottoman influences. Given that Berat also has Ottoman-style architecture, it makes sense that there are similarities, even though they’re 1300 kilometres apart.

The best view of Şirince can be admired from the terraces of the many restaurants and cafés. Şirince is quite popular amongst Turkish tourists. Everywhere, you'll find wine shops and cafés where coffee is traditionally prepared in hot sand, despite neither being locally produced. The restaurants, however, tend to offer a bit less value for money compared to other parts of Türkiye. That said, there are some really charming and atmospheric hotels that offer a stay in the old, characteristic buildings.

We stayed at the lovely Chez Rumi Butik Otel, located in the heart of the village, where we enjoyed a delicious and extensive breakfast. We highly recommend this hotel, not only because of its charming setting but also because the staff were by far the friendliest people we encountered during our whole vacation!

Ephesus
Ephesus is the most famous ancient Greek-Roman city in Türkiye and for good reason. The city was of significant importance due to its harbour, but when the sea receded, the city declined and eventually fell into ruin. It's vast in scale, with several impressive structures still standing, such as the immense amphitheatre and a beautiful section of the Library of Celsus. Nearby, you'll also find the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Like most of the other wonders, only very little remains here —just a reconstructed column and parts of the foundation. Fun fact: due to the mystical significance of Ephesus, many people fled here in 2012 to survive the end of the Mayan calendar!

Our visit to Ephesus did, however, leave a bitter aftertaste, and we're unsure whether to label it as a must-see for a few reasons. Firstly, the entrance fee has recently increased from 10 to 40 euros, which feels like an outrageous price when compared to other archaeological sites and activities in Türkiye. Additionally, many archaeological mistakes were made during the restoration. Wall sections were turned into part of the streets, column bases were made into column heads, and ugly cement blocks that damage the marble were used to rebuild gates. As a result, it feels more like an amusement park than an authentic archaeological site. We can only hope that with the millions of euros generated from foreign tourists (since locals pay only 2 euros!), they'll eventually correct these restoration errors.

In short, Ephesus is undoubtedly impressive and rightly one of Türkiye's most famous places, but if you're not an archaeology geek like us, there are many excellent alternatives in the region for much less money, such as Aphrodisias, which we will discuss later.

Izmir

The travel time from Şirince/Ephesus to Izmir is about an hour

Let's get straight to the point: Izmir is not a must-visit. We say this because there are not that many sights to see or thrilling things to do (for tourists). Still, we enjoyed spending a day or two exploring the city. Maybe it’s because we got to catch up with our brother and sister (in-law) who study here, or perhaps it’s because Izmir isn’t a touristy city, allowing you to get a glimpse of real Turkish city life.

We loved coming across some trendy coffee spots again, full of students hanging out together. The bazaar was also a highlight for us. Although the bazaars in Izmir are big and bustling, they feel much more relaxed compared to those in touristy areas, as you’re not approached at all and bargaining isn’t even a thing here. The food is also much cheaper and better. A visit to the historic Kizlarağasi Inn is especially memorable. This beautiful building from 1745 now operates as a bazaar, with antique and jewellery shops selling high-quality goods. Locals gather in the courtyard to enjoy tea and chat, making it a lovely, authentic experience.

Other must-visit spots include the square with the Konak Mosque and the iconic clock tower, as well as the historic city elevator a bit further on. Locals use this elevator to reach the higher parts of the city. The neighbourhoods around here gave us a bit of a Naples vibe, though perhaps a little less sketchy. At the base of the elevator, there’s a super charming street lined with street art and cosy bars. In short, Izmir makes for a great addition to your itinerary if you’re looking for an authentic glimpse into Turkish city life.

Aphrodisias, Pamukkale-Hierapolis & Lake Salda

De travel time from Izmir to Aphrodisias is around 2.5 hours. From here, it’s a bit more than an hour to Pamukkale-Hierapolis. Therefore, we advise you to stay here for the night and to continue to Antalya straight after your visit of Lake Salda, which takes 3 hours and 45 minutes in total.

Aphrodisias
This section of the route is actually the only part that doesn’t follow the coast. From Izmir, you can take an inland route back to Antalya, passing by some unique attractions along the way. One of the archaeological highlights of our journey was the ancient city of Aphrodisias. As the name suggests, this Greco-Roman city was dedicated to Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and beauty. The city flourished during the Roman and Byzantine periods and was renowned for its sculptures, thanks to the nearby marble mountains. You can still find remarkably well-preserved sculptures here, which are more beautiful and extensive than we’ve seen anywhere else.

Aphrodisias also boasts other impressive remnants, such as the Temple of Aphrodite, the amphitheatre, an immense and beautifully situated stadium, a public pool, and an extensive agora (the gathering place for trade). The Tetrapylon, a decorated gate that once welcomed visitors into the city, is particularly stunning. We were truly in awe of Aphrodisias, as the city is enormous and exceptionally well-restored. You’ll also encounter very few visitors since it’s not near any major tourist areas. Aphrodisias is a UNESCO site due to its historical and cultural significance. We highly recommend a visit, which is quite affordable as well, with an entry fee of just 13 euros.

Pamukkale-Hierapolis
Pamukkale-Hierapolis is another spot that left us with mixed feelings. In some ways, we anticipated this, as it’s one of the most tourist-flooded destinations in Türkiye, alongside Ephesus. This doesn't have to be an issue in itself, except that over the years, the site seems to have lost quite a bit of its original charm.

Pamukkale, which translates to 'cotton clouds' in Turkish, is the name of a site where a water spring has created a unique natural phenomenon over thousands of years, namely the formation of travertines cascading from the mountain. Travertines are limestone deposits formed by the flow of water into terraces, making the Turkish name rather fitting. You could think of them as natural 'infinity pools'. The Romans appreciated this beauty just as much as tourists today, which is why they built an entire 'wellness city' around it called Hierapolis. Even Cleopatra was said to visit frequently and had her own pool, where you can still swim among the ruins to date.

Pamukkale still draws tourists from around the world, largely due to travel agencies showcasing stunning photos from years past, back when more of the travertine pools were filled with water. However, due to factors like mismanagement of the water source and subsequent depletion of it, many of the terraces have dried up. To us, the landscape felt more like a ski slope at the end of the season. Don’t get us wrong, it’s still a remarkable sight, but it’s bittersweet to realize how much more beautiful it could have been if mass tourism had been better controlled. Adding to this is the recent price hike from 10 to 30 euros.

Fortunately, besides Pamukkale, you can also explore the remains of the ancient Roman city of Hierapolis. The amphitheatre here is one of the most beautiful we’ve seen, with the stage walls still standing and the phenomenal view of the landscape. Equally striking is the extensive necropolis, or 'city of the dead', with hundreds of tombs and sarcophagi that are still visible. Necropolises are typical of Roman cities, but nowhere else have we seen one as intact as this. Hierapolis definitely helps make the steep entrance fee feel a bit more worthwhile.

To properly explore Hierapolis and Pamukkale, you’ll need at least a few hours. We recommend staying overnight in Pamukkale so you can enter as early as possible to beat the tour buses. The park opens at 8 a.m., and if you arrive shortly after, you’ll have a good chance of parking near the South Gate, which requires the least walking. We advise against entering from the gate at the base of the town, as this requires walking up (and back down) the travertines with bare feet which can be quite painful.

In short, we again have mixed feelings about labelling one of the most famous tourist spots as a must-see due to the state of it and the entrance fee. That said, it is still a unique place. So, if you’re not concerned about the entrance price and you’re already nearby, it’s definitely worth considering a visit. If you’re still craving more archaeological sites, you’ll find the impressive ancient city of Laodicea close by, and on the way to Antalya, the city of Kibyra. If you thought Europe had the best or most Roman ruins, Türkiye will certainly change your mind!

Lake Salda
Another spot that is especially popular among Turkish tourists is Lake Salda. The Turks also like to call it the Maldives of Türkiye, which we find a bit misplaced, as there isn’t an island in sight. However, we understand that the crystal-clear blue water and white beaches can evoke a similar feeling.

On the southern side, you’ll find the most expansive beaches, where people enjoy picnicking and swimming. Recently, access to the lake has been restricted to prevent pollution, as the government plans to turn it into a national park. A fun fact about this lake is that it was formed by the impact of a meteorite. It’s reportedly the deepest lake in Türkiye, with nearly 200 meters at its deepest point. We haven’t heard of a Turkish version of the Loch Ness Monster, but with such depths, we weren’t too eager to swim in it…

A fun way to visit the lake is to venture off the beaten path and drive from Pamukkale to the village of Doğanbaba. If you don’t specifically pin this on Google Maps, you’ll be directed to the southern side, but it's much more enjoyable to approach the lake from the north and then follow the eastern coastline. Here, you’ll have a stunning view of the lake from the mountains, and interestingly, you’ll find almost no other tourists, which makes it feel extra special. We recommend stopping at the beautifully located Orman Evi Restaurant, where you can have a drink or meal while enjoying a great view of the lake. You can also still walk down to the beach and water from here.

After visiting Lake Salda, your collection of attractions will nearly be complete. You can then wind down in Antalya before heading back home. We hope you'll become as enthusiastic about Western Türkiye as we did!

Possible additions

There are countless ways to expand your Türkiye trip. Here’s a brief overview of the options:

Explore more of Western Türkiye and the Greek Islands
You can consider visiting more touristy spots like Bodrum and Marmaris. From these locations, you can also visit the Greek islands of Kos and Rhodes, which is especially nice if you’re doing a longer road trip with your own vehicle. The Marmaris Peninsula offers beautiful bays, beaches, and the ancient Greek village of Datça. You can even take a ferry from here to Bodrum. Alternatively, you can head east from Antalya to explore more of Türkiye's Mediterranean region, where you’ll come across popular coastal towns like Alanya and Side.

A tour around Türkiye
Many people planning just one trip to Türkiye opt for a round trip starting from Istanbul. Typically, they follow the western coast to Antalya, then head to Cappadocia (famous for its unique rock formations and cave dwellings), and later drive through the inland to the Black Sea region. However, given the distances and the number of sights to see, we would only recommend this if you have at least six weeks available. Even then, we would focus on Western Türkiye, allocating a few days for Istanbul and a week for Cappadocia.

A trip through the authentic and vast East Türkiye region
If you're looking to venture off the beaten path, the eastern and southeastern regions of Türkiye offer a truly authentic and different experience. These areas are much less populated, and you'll encounter far fewer tourists, making it ideal for the more seasoned travellers. The distances are quite long, so we’d recommend considering this for a campervan road trip. If you want an easier option, you could also join a group tour, many of which also include Cappadocia.

A visit to the unique and complex island of Cyprus
Lastly, consider a visit to Cyprus. Located off the southern coast of Türkiye, the island is divided into Greek-Cypriot and Turkish-Cypriot parts, making it a fascinating and unique destination. The capital, Nicosia, is the last divided capital in Europe, and there are even British territories on the island. A trip to Cyprus offers beautiful beaches, intriguing history, unique culture, and for those interested in ‘dark tourism,’ there are plenty of poignant sites to explore.

Practical information

Best time to travel
Western Türkiye is a popular sun and beach destination. Between June and September, temperatures here rise to well over 30 degrees Celsius. If you want a varied holiday with plenty of cultural experiences, enjoying nature, and strolling through charming towns, we particularly recommend the months of April, May, October, and November. The hotel prices and crowdedness are much better during these months as well. In May and October, you can still enjoy the sun and the beach since the temperatures typically stay above 25 degrees Celsius. Keep in mind that opening hours and the frequency of ferries between October and May might be less favourable due to the off-season. However, we encountered almost no issues with this, and in our opinion, the lack of tourist crowds more than makes up for it.

Booking accommodations
We recommend using multiple booking apps for your vacation in Türkiye. There are two reasons for this: 1) it allows you to find the best deals and save a lot of money, and 2) foreign booking websites are blocked in Türkiye. The latter can be bypassed by setting up a VPN connection before browsing. You will need a Turkish (e-)SIM card and a VPN subscription for that. We recommend Airalo (for e-SIM cards) and Surfshark (for VPN services). This way, you'll have internet access right from the airport, as well as in hotels with poor Wi-Fi connections, which, unfortunately, is rather common.

Food and drinks
Food prices in Türkiye can vary greatly, especially since the massive inflation of recent years. At simple eateries, you’ll often pay between 5 and 10 euros per person, while at more upscale or trendy restaurants, the cost is usually between 15 and 25 euros. Alcohol has also become significantly more expensive due to tax hikes aimed at discouraging alcohol consumption. On the other hand, coffee (kahve), especially Turkish or Nescafé, and tea (çay) are truly staples in Türkiye and can often be bought for just a few cents.

In most places, there are restaurants across various price ranges, so with a bit of searching, you can almost always find something that fits your budget. The advantage of low-budget dining is that, in our experience, the price-quality ratio is almost always good, as locals tend to frequent these spots. You can easily spot these places by their often bright lighting and simple decor. A tip: when looking at a menu through apps like Google Maps or TripAdvisor, always pay attention to the date, as inflation in Türkiye is so high that you might be shocked if you picked out a restaurant based on menu prices from a year ago.

Typical dishes

• Gözleme: A type of savoury stuffed pancake that you can find all over the country. The most common fillings are minced meat, spinach, potato, and/or cheese. Sometimes you'll also find them with eggplant, our favourite!

• Köfte: Spiced meatballs, available in many variations, such as in a sandwich or in a stew with tomato, eggplant, and cheese. You can find these everywhere.

• Pide: a diamond-shaped pizza with various fillings like minced meat, vegetables, egg, and cheese.

• Döner: a spit-roasted meat dish with a marinade of tomato paste and paprika paste/powder. You can have it in a lovely bread wrap or go for the İskender version, where the meat is served on a layer of bread with tomato sauce on top. We recommend choosing chicken over lamb or beef as these tend to be quite dry in our opinion.

• Manti: Small dough pockets filled with minced meat and served with yoghurt and red pepper sauce. It's very mild and reminded us a bit of stuffed pasta.

Typical sweets:

• Halva: A dessert made from semolina, butter, and sugar. It's mostly eaten during special occasions, but in most bigger towns and cities, you'll find a Helvaci Ali where you can order this treat. The basic version (Sade) is already very tasty, but the one with pistachio is also highly recommended. Definitely say yes when asked whether you want a layer of vanilla ice cream underneath.

• Künefe: A unique dessert made from melted mozzarella-like cheese, crispy strands of dough, sugar syrup, and nuts. As you can imagine, it's quite rich but incredibly delicious!

Typical drinks:

• Nar Suyu: Fresh pomegranate juice, which you can find everywhere as pomegranates are abundant in this part of Türkiye. It gives you a real energy boost due to its strong flavour and sugar, so we recommend sharing it with your travel partner.

• Ayran: A yoghurt drink made by mixing yoghurt with water and a pinch of salt. It’s another great energy boost. Just make sure you get the low-salt version, although that was already the standard everywhere we ordered it.

The language
Since this part of Türkiye is quite touristy, you'll often be able to get by with English. However, we still found ourselves using the Google Translate app quite frequently, especially for interactions with older Turks. Our tip is to download the app and the Turkish language within it so you can communicate even without an internet connection. The speech-to-text feature was particularly useful and led to some great interactions.

That said, it's always useful and fun to understand and speak some of the local language wherever you go. First, it’s helpful to know how certain letters are pronounced, for example, when asked where you're going. This website provides a handy guide to Turkish pronunciation. Another tip: ask Chatgpt for a list of basic Turkish words and phrases with their pronunciation and meaning in your own language.